It's mid-September, and the garden is steadily pushing out produce. Beans are still coming in strong, but there's more. Plenty more...
Carrots and beets are ready to be pulled whenever we want them. Volunteer cherry tomatoes are producing, and in serious quantity.
A few larger tomatoes are ripening, every couple days. We also have lots of hot peppers. Above are Scotch Bonnets. They have this gorgeous deep red/pink color.
This weekend, I need to get more beds cleaned out, plant some cover crop, and do a little food preservation. Time to dehydrate.
Thursday, September 20, 2012
Tuesday, September 11, 2012
How to grow your own Impatiens from seed for free
If you're unhappy plunking down good money to buy annuals at your local garden center, there is another way. Scary as it sounds, you can grow your own. I know, I know...this is crazy talk - anti-capitalist blasphemy...but hear me out.
If you have impatiens that you have kept alive all summer, go take a look at them. There's a good chance that if it's early autumn, they have a new structure dangling somewhere near a blossom. It's a seed pod, and they are the source of the plant's name. Impatiens is Latin for "impatient," and these seed pods are very hasty fellows. Don't touch the seed pod, but pick it by the stem.
These puppies are translucent, and you can see a dark center. Those are the seeds. If you're gentle as you pick them, you can carefully hold a bunch of them in your hand.
I take them in the house and set them on a piece of white paper. Now the fun begins, unless you've already discovered their special surprise. If you gently squeeze a seed pod, it will curl up with a snap and launch seeds into the air. My sons, jaded and crass as they are, were even impressed by how cool it is to pop these seed pods. They are capable of launching seeds a yard or more away. However, if you pop them in a closed fist, or smash them flat with your hand, they won't be able to send seeds flying, and you'll find little brown seeds mixed in with the fleshy green pod parts.
Separate the seeds from the "popped" pods. They ball up into little fists, and squeeze seeds out of the ends. At this point the white paper is just to help you see the seeds.
But once you've separated the seed, the paper is great for funneling the seed into an envelope for storage. In the late winter or early spring, tear open the envelope and sprinkle them into damp seed starting mix. Cover with plastic, and put the pot in a sunny place, and they will sprout. Once the weather has warmed some, and the impatiens are large enough to survive the stress of it all, you can transplant them into shady or semi-shady parts of your yard. They also do well in pots, and as long as you keep them watered, they will last until it gets cold. Almost all of our impatiens this year were grown from seed. It's easy, and you can do it too.
So, go see if your impatiens have seed pods, and get popping.
Monday, September 3, 2012
Weeds
I spent about 6 hours today in the garden. It drizzled on and off this morning, but the ground was moist and perfect for weeding. Not my favorite garden chore...I usually do a variety of things to avoid weeding, including laying down mulch, covering the tomato beds with black fabric, and planting crops so densely that the weeds don't see daylight. Despite all that, wild flora will not be denied. It grows, no matter what I do. So I must rip them out. Yes, rip them out. Now that I use the seedbed method, the soil is not compacted, so for me, the most time-effective and satisfying weeding method is to rip them out with my bare hands.
I weeded 2 seedbeds, which amounts to 1/6 of the garden. Here's the harvest:
After weeding, I planted a couple kinds of lettuce, radish, spinach, arugula, and Chinese cabbage. We should have two months left before the first frost, so all those things will be harvest-able before then. Assuming the frost is reading the same almanac that I am.
I weeded 2 seedbeds, which amounts to 1/6 of the garden. Here's the harvest:
After weeding, I planted a couple kinds of lettuce, radish, spinach, arugula, and Chinese cabbage. We should have two months left before the first frost, so all those things will be harvest-able before then. Assuming the frost is reading the same almanac that I am.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)